Fork end alignment tool

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Add to Compare. Full Manufacturer Warranty. Shipping to WorldWide. Paid by Paypal or Card. Front and rear axles are of different diameters -- make sure you have the right one for the job. To avoid bending thin forkends in the middle, a wrench needs to be large enough that its jaws reach across from the back of the forkends to where they attach to the stays -- at least a inch adjustable wrench.

Check that the axle is straight by rolling it across a tabletop. Hacksaw the axle in half in the middle. Thread a bearing cone and locknut or axle nut onto each end. Do not tighten them against one another. Slide each half of the axle all the way into the forkend slot, as far as it will go. As shown in the photo below, clamp the forkends finger tight between the nuts and cones, so the axle halves almost meet halfway between the forkends. Measuring forkend alignment using a split hub axle.

These forkends are slightly splayed outward toward the rear. When the forkends are correctly aligned, the axle halves will point directly toward each other, forming a straight line. If not, remove the measuring tool and realign the forkends.

If the forkends are misaligned because you spread them apart, aim to bend the dropout along a line parallel to the bicycle's seat tube. Place wrench jaws over the upper part of the forkend, to avoid bending the upper and lower sides of the slot out of parallel. You can check their parallelism with a straightedge and align them, grasping the lower tang of the dropout with the adjustable wrench. Using a bench vise instead of an adjustable wrench makes it easier to grip the dropout close to the frame or fork -- but don't get so close that you risk damaging the connection.

If using a vise, rest the frame on the bench so its weight can't bend the forkend. Work slowly and carefully: remember, you need only adjust the angle by one or two degrees, if that much.

Realigning the forkends will also slightly affect their spacing. To make it easiest to remove and replace the wheel, readjust the spacing. This adjustment is small -- the 2 x 4 method described on the other page will probably overcorrect. You might instead give the chainstay on each side a light whack with a rubber mallet. Many damaged bicycles can be safely straightened and repaired when the proper tools are used by skilled mechanics.

When these tools are used to straighten and assure the alignment of a frame or fork, the repaired bicycle will be safer to ride. During any repair, safety should always come first. Customers should be advised prior to straightening that not all bicycles can be repaired. After alignment, all frames and forks should be carefully inspected for cracks or kinked tubes. A customer should be advised when certain conditions render a bicycle unsafe to ride.

NOTE: Some frames and forks may not be alignable.